Killer DIY projects you can do at home

Sometimes all we need is a little inspiration to get started on that DIY home project.

Step by step instructional decor projects

Looking to spice up that one room in the house? Search to find your inspiration!

Tip #1 Always select the right tools for the job.

No need to fear the tools you have at home. When used properly you may be suprised what you can accomplish.

Tip #2 Measure twice, cut once.

Keep a close eye on all of your measurements before cutting any material.

Tip #3 Secure your project if at all possible.

Be sure to secure your project if at all possible when working.

Showing posts with label Hydrodynamics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hydrodynamics. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Inaugural Service World Expo exceeds attendees’ expectations

Check out the cover story, Look the prat, Establish a premium brand experience right from the start. Find out what Meet sustainability goals with water-source heat pumps, and Improvements in food-waste disposers are about.

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from Plumbing and Mechanical http://ift.tt/2fsebgi


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Monday, November 21, 2016

PHCC's CONNECT 2016 proves everything is 'bigger in Texas'

Check out the cover story, Look the prat, Establish a premium brand experience right from the start. Find out what Meet sustainability goals with water-source heat pumps, and Improvements in food-waste disposers are about.

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from Plumbing and Mechanical http://ift.tt/2fxQD7b


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Thursday, November 17, 2016

Following instructions for installing a two-zone system

The Glitch

A schematic, very similar to the one below, appears in a manufacturer’s installation manual. It represents the manufacturer’s recommendation for installing a two-zone system. Can you identify at least five things that could be changed to improve this system?

The Fix

What’s wrong?

1. The zone valves should be located on the supply side of the zone circuits to eliminate heat migration into inactive zone circuits.

2. The tee shown below the zone valves is a “bullhead” tee. When both zones are on, return flows slam directly into each other. This creates turbulence and noise. It also wastes circulator head.

3. There should be at least 12 diameters of straight pipe leading into the circulator. Placing it close to the side port of the bullhead tee allows turbulent flow into the circulator. This decreases circulator performance and creates noise.

4. The circulator in the glitch drawing is pumping toward rather than away from the expansion tank. This causes a decrease in pressure within the zone circuits when their circulators operate.

5. There is no provision for differential pressure control in the original system.

6. There are no purging valves in the original system.

These glitches have been corrected in the fix drawing.

Differential pressure control is managed by a pressure regulated variable speed circulator. It also could be managed by a differential pressure bypass valve in combination with a fixed-speed circulator.


from Plumbing and Mechanical http://ift.tt/2gm2xoJ


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Following instructions for installing a two-zone system

The Glitch

A schematic, very similar to the one below, appears in a manufacturer’s installation manual. It represents the manufacturer’s recommendation for installing a two-zone system. Can you identify at least five things that could be changed to improve this system?

The Fix

What’s wrong?

1. The zone valves should be located on the supply side of the zone circuits to eliminate heat migration into inactive zone circuits.

2. The tee shown below the zone valves is a “bullhead” tee. When both zones are on, return flows slam directly into each other. This creates turbulence and noise. It also wastes circulator head.

3. There should be at least 12 diameters of straight pipe leading into the circulator. Placing it close to the side port of the bullhead tee allows turbulent flow into the circulator. This decreases circulator performance and creates noise.

4. The circulator in the glitch drawing is pumping toward rather than away from the expansion tank. This causes a decrease in pressure within the zone circuits when their circulators operate.

5. There is no provision for differential pressure control in the original system.

6. There are no purging valves in the original system.

These glitches have been corrected in the fix drawing.

Differential pressure control is managed by a pressure regulated variable speed circulator. It also could be managed by a differential pressure bypass valve in combination with a fixed-speed circulator.


from Plumbing and Mechanical http://ift.tt/2gliqM7


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

November 2016 Ad Index

Check out the cover story, Look the prat, Establish a premium brand experience right from the start. Find out what Meet sustainability goals with water-source heat pumps, and Improvements in food-waste disposers are about.

View More

from Plumbing and Mechanical http://ift.tt/2fWvdAu


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Primary/secondary systems need proper detailing to work correctly

Primary/secondary systems need proper detailing to work correctly.

One of the most important details is preventing heat migration from the primary loop into an inactive secondary circuit.

In 1968 Bell & Gossett produced the “Primary Secondary Pumping Application Manual” (Bullentin No. TEH-775). This publication provided information on how to properly connect secondary circuits to a primary loop so buoyancy driven flow (also called thermosiphoning) would not carry heat into the secondary circuit when its circulator was off, but other secondary circuits attached to the primary loop were operating.

On the supply side of the secondary circuit, B&G showed use of a weighted plug flow check valve to prevent buoyancy driven flow. A weighted plug flow check valve has a forward opening pressure requirement of 0.3 to 0.5 psi. This was sufficient to prevent the slight pressure differential created by hot water on the supply side of the secondary circuit and cooler water on the return side from inducing thermosiphon flow in the circuit. It also compensates for a very small (but not zero) pressure drop across the closely spaced tees that connected the secondary circuit to the primary loop.

Weighted plug flow check valves are still available for several suppliers and can still be used for the above described purpose. However, many modern systems now use spring-loaded check valves to accomplish the same function. The light spring pressure within these valves holds the disk against its seat to prevent forward flow until the pressure differential reaches about 0.5 psi. The spring check valve can be a separate component or a cartridge inserted in the volute of small hydronic circulators. When used as a separate component, there should be at least 12 pipe diameters of straight pipe upstream of the check valve to reduce turbulence entering the valve. If not attenuated, turbulence can cause rattling sounds in some check valves that have metal-to-metal contact between the movable disk and its seat.

A weak thermosiphon flow can develop within the return side piping of a secondary circuit, even when a flow check or spring-loaded check valve is installed on the supply side of the circuit. Hotter water will slowly rise through the center portion of the pipe’s cross section, while water in contact with the pipe walls cools and descends. This effect is not as strong as forward thermosiphon flow, but it can still be annoying and ideally it should be prevented.

The previously cited B&G manual showed two options for preventing thermosiphoning on the return side of a secondary circuit. One was to install another weighted plug flow check valve on the return side of the secondary circuit. The other was to create a “thermal trap” by dropping the return side of the secondary circuit a minimum of 12 in. below the primary loop, and then making a U-turn and connecting to the downstream tee as shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1. The other was to create a “thermal trap”

I first read about this in the 1990s. I was intrigued by the concept that hot water would not push downward due to its reduced density. It seemed a thermal trap would be less expensive to create relative to installing another flow check valve. It would be more hydrodynamically efficient (e.g., create less head loss than a flow check valve). Lower head loss is always preferred because it allows a given circulator to achieve a higher flow rate in a circuit — all other detail being the same.

I pondered the following: If a thermal trap could prevent heat migration on the return side of a secondary circuit, why couldn’t it do the same thing on the supply side? Why not use two thermal traps and completely eliminate the need for a cast-iron flow check valve in the circuit?

In addition to cost savings and lower head loss this would reduce iron-to-copper connections in the system, which is better from the standpoint of minimizing galvanic corrosion.  It would eliminate having to solder in two MPT x C (male pipe thread to copper) adapter fittings between the copper tubing and FPT body of the flow check valve.

Back in the 1990s, when primary/secondary piping was the darling of the hydronics trade, any incremental improvement in how such systems could be designed or installed would probably be well received. So, inspired by the potential benefits of dual thermal traps I designed a multiload primary/secondary system using them on all secondary circuits.

 

I was wrong

When that system went into operation, the anticipation of thinking I’d found a new and improved way to stop heat migration quickly turned into disappointing results. 

I found the double underslung trapped secondary circuits did not experience migration as long as their secondary circulator remained off after the primary loop first heated up. However, once a secondary circuit became active, and thus hot water was present on the supply side of the circuit, and cooler water was present on its return side, thermosiphoning did occur after the secondary circulator in the circuit was turned off. Furthermore, this thermosiphoning continued until all the secondary circuits served by the primary loop were off and the loop had cooled down substantially from its normal operating temperature.

My disappointment was followed by determination to figure out why this arrangement didn’t work as expected. It turns out the diagnosis was logical and — as the saying goes — hindsight is 20/20.

Take a look at the double underslung thermal traps in Figure 2.

Figure 2. Take a look at the double underslung thermal traps

When the secondary circulator is off, each of the thermal traps prevents hot water from moving downward more than a few inches, and thus prevents thermosiphoning in the secondary circuit. The temperature of the water columns on both the supply and return sides of the secondary circuit is essentially the same. There is no pressure differential within the circuit because there is no temperature difference to create it.

That changes when the secondary circuit is turned on. There is now a column of hot water on the supply side of the secondary circuit, and cooler water on the return side. The supply side thermal trap is filled with hot water, and the return side trap filled with cooler water. Thus, each trap is buoyancy neutral. Neither induces thermosiphoning within the secondary circuit.

Unfortunately, this is not the case for the secondary piping above the primary loop. Hot water on the supply side has lower density than cooler water on the return side. The result is a self-perpetuating differential pressure that’s sufficient to carry heat well into the secondary circuit at times when there’s no demand for heat from that circuit. Overheating is the obvious result. This is especially true if one of the secondary circuits operates for domestic water heating during summer when none of the other loads served by the primary loop requires heat.

After the secondary circulator turns off, the return side of the secondary circuit gets even cooler relative to the supply side. This further strengthens the differential pressure and maintains the buoyancy driven flow through the secondary circuit. If any other secondary circuit is operating, a fresh supply of heated water in the primary loop feeds this undesirable process. It continues until all the secondary circuits are off and the supply and return sides of the secondary circuit(s) come back to the same temperature.

The take-away: Don’t use a thermal trap on the supply side of secondary circuits. Use either a weighted plug flow check or a spring-loaded check valve on the supply side. The underslung thermal trap is still fine on the return side — as shown in the 1968 B&G publication.

Hot water will always want to go up, while cooler water will always want to go down. Be sure your future piping inspirations don’t neglect this fact of physics. If you don’t want heat migration, be sure you include proven details to stop it.

This article was originally titled “Double dipping” in the September 2016 print edition of Plumbing & Mechanical.


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

7 helpful tips of adding another trade

It’s an age-old question we, as contractors, face when deciding whether to stay specialized on the trade(s) we currently do or if it makes sense to add another trade to the existing mix.

Coming from a family business that originally only did heating, I can tell you the pros and the cons for us. The pro, we worked like crazy during the busy season and then could enjoy our time off in the slow season. The con is we opened ourselves up to other contractors who would lock us out of our customers’ basement because they could serve the customer as a one-stop shopping experience.

We didn’t like that at all. Plus, if you experience a dreadfully mild winter, as we did this year, there’s no second bite of the apple to give you a chance to make it up such as being in the cooling trade and having a hot summer to boost sales.

One trade was a high-wire act.

That’s why we branched out and went into the plumbing and cooling business. These days we also are doing electrical work.

It’s so much easier to sell additional services to a happy existing customer than to constantly find new customers who don’t know you and then convince them to use you. Plus, the more cross-training you do, the more the average tickets rise. You can make legitimate suggestions to help your customers achieve safety and comfort.

For example: While on a heating call, you see the water main has old gate valves. If you make the right recommendation (to upgrade to full-port ball valves) you don’t need to move the truck, sales increase and you’ve helped your customer because that main water shutoff could be all that’s stopping him from an emergency flooding when something breaks.

The problem is you can’t tiptoe into another trade. You need to be committed to making it what you do. I tell clients: “If one person at your company can do it, it’s a hobby. When all of you can do it, it’s an integral trade your company does.”

I teach contractors how to add another trade all the time. Here are seven tips on what we do when we add another trade:

  • We customize one or more of my trade manuals such as plumbing, heating, cooling and electrical to fit their service area and the type of work they want to do.

  • We build a training center module that simulates real-world service and install work so the techs can master it in a safe environment.

  • We tweak the customer service rep and dispatcher manuals to reflect the addition of the new trade.

  • We dedicate weekly and big-block training time to get our existing techs up to speed on the new trade so they’re fully cross-trained.

  • Once this is all done, we add brochures that feature happy customer testimonials and pictures, and add it to the Tech Packs so they can make sure the customer knows all of what we now do.

  • We add it to all the marketing the company does — starting with the website and on-hold messages.

  • We make sure the parts for the new trade are on the trucks and in the warehouse so the techs feel confident they have what they need when they’ll need it to serve the customer the way they should be served.

How do you know?

Now if all this seems like too much to do, I’d say you can wait but you may risk being locked out of your customers’ basements too.

First things first: Pay attention to changing market conditions and monitoring how well your own company is functioning.

There is always a balancing act. Sometimes, a good sub can be a good answer to staying focused and specialized, if you feel another trade will pull you off task.

However, you do risk giving away dollars and control to someone else. If the other company messes up, it’s bound to damage your own business and reputation so choose your subs and trade alliances well.

Be aware taking on a new trade (with new products and services) can make a lot of sense but it can be challenging, especially if you’re eliminating subs and now doing the work yourself.

No one answer fits all but here is some good advice that I share with my own clients who have decided to continue to use subs appropriately and to enter new trades successfully. It’s all based on my own company’s approach.

As a matter of fact, one of my clients is currently debating the value of whether to add weatherization products and services to the work it already does. It’s in this enviable situation because the company now does a great job of selling and doing home energy audits and weatherization work is a natural result of its energy audits.

Currently, the company uses well-trained subs (the customer delegated how to do the work to its standards) who do this work at very competitive pricing. But, we naturally debate the worth of potentially making more money and taking more control of the outcome.

What I recommended to this client when faced with a great question like this is to bring it up in his Daily Business Meditation first. The Daily Business Meditation is where you ask yourself the following set of questions and spend time thinking about it: 

  • What business am I really in?

  • What business should I be exiting?

  • What business should I be going into?

In this scenario as to whether to bring on a new trade with a new set of products and services, you must ask yourself the next set of questions. Answer them as honestly as you can by first removing your ego from the equation:

  • Will we make more money for less grief by continuing to sub the work out?

  • Does subbing the work out keep us from being distracted from what we should be focusing on?

  • Would we make more money and still be competitive in pricing as well as do a better job if we did the work ourselves?

The other bigger questions to ask are:

  • Are you already on top of how to deliver on sales and work done in the trades your company does today?

  • Are you the company people think about when they want top-notch work in the trade(s) your company does?

Note: If you said yes to these two questions, it’s time to think about expanding into another sector or growing your service area. If not, it’s time to stay focused and make this a reality first and then reexamine how this next piece you want to add would fit in a profitable model.

Our company also knew what trades we didn’t want to do. And one trade we never wanted to do was home security. That’s why we found a really good home security company that we could be allies with and we worked out a Stand-Still Agreement that benefited us both. In Stand-Still Agreements both parties agree not to enter each other’s business or take one another’s clients. Know that this type of agreement can vary.

One last thing: Once you are philosophically onboard about adding this next piece to your company, you must do a financial projection and remember if it doesn’t make sense on paper — don’t pursue it.

This article was originally titled “Need to add another trade?” in the September 2016 print edition of Plumbing & Mechanical.


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Friday, September 23, 2016

Electric Eel Model CT countertop drain-cleaning machine

Electric Eel’s Model CT Countertop drain-cleaning machine features unique variable-speed motor control, which gives the operator maximum cable control and cleaning power from 75 to 350 rpm with constant torque. It cleans 3/4” to 2-1/2” dia. drain lines up to 50’. It features a 1/5 hp, 90V DC motor. It is available with a two-way auto cable feed that keeps hands off rotating cable. The cable guide hose eliminates cable whipping and helps keep work areas clean. The stainless-steel cable drum will not rust and resists denting.

Electric Eel. www.electriceel.com


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Gorlitz Model GO 68HD electric drain-cleaning machine

Gorlitz’s Model GO 68HD heavy duty electric drain-cleaning machine features a power, motor and gearbox combination. It is available in two different versions, either with an open steel reel or enclosed polyethylene drum, and it can be outfitted with an optional Power Feeder. Standard configuration is 150’ of 11/16” hollow-core cable, which should reach most blockages with a single reel. Overall weight of this machine is 185 lb. This model is designed to clean pipes from 3” to 8” in diameter.

Gorlitz Sewer & Drain. www.gorlitz.com


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

General Pipe Cleaners Model DRZ drain-cleaning machine

General Pipe Cleaners’ compact, lightweight Model DRZ power drain cleaner quickly, cleanly and quietly clears clogs from 1-1/4” to 3” sink, tub and laundry lines up to 50’ long. The variable-speed power cable feed drives cables up to 16’ per. min. The 4’ guide tube keeps your hands, and the jobsite, clean. The quiet yet powerful motor won’t disturb customers. It operates horizontally on the kitchen counter or vertically on the floor next to the tub. A carrying handle facilitates transport to and from jobs.

General Pipe Cleaners. www.drainbrain.com


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

Milwaukee Tool cordless M12 Drain Snake

Milwaukee Tool’s cordless M12 Drain Snake is developed specifically for cleaning fixtures and small drain lines up to 25’ long. It features a fixed shield around the drum, eliminating the potential for the spinning drum to come in contact with the fixture or user. Powered by any Milwaukee M12 Lithium-Ion battery, the 2-1/2” drain line machine weighs 10 lb. For easier cable feed, users can rest the tool on its flat base, freeing up a hand that is typically used to hold the tool. 

Milwaukee Tool. http://ift.tt/NU63B7


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.

KWC INTRO bath line

KWC’s INTRO bath line (pictured) features a Neoperl Caché SSR E swiveling jet regulator, which allows consumers to change the direction and angle of the water jet. The collection features a single-lever faucet and a widespread faucet. The PIANA bath line features water spa technology including thermostatic and pressure balance valves that intuitively control water temperature and flow. It includes a single-lever faucet, a single-lever vessel faucet and a widespread faucet. Both lines are available in chrome or stainless steel and feature flow rates between 1.2 and 1.75 gal. per min.

KWC. www.kwc.us.com


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Sourced by "Home Hacks". Scouring and supporting the art of DIY home projects by sharing links and information provided by numerous active reputable DIY veterans and company's. Any projects you start please be of proper age, follow all required safety measures, and use the required protective equipment when handling any chemicals, power tools, or during any construction project. If you need advice regarding your next project we suggest visiting Contractor Talk.