Thursday, April 2, 2015

Summer Crops: How to Grow Cucumbers (3 photos)

Planting and care: Choose a site with fertile, well-drained soil. Sow seeds once the soil is warm and frost danger has passed. If you started plants indoors or are buying nursery starts, set them out at this time as well. If you’re using a support system, set this up when you sow seeds or plant seedlings. Place bush varieties a little closer together than what is recommended below for standard vining varieties. You can also sow successively to ensure a long harvest.

To grow in hills, make soil mounds 6 to 8 inches high and 4 to 6 feet apart. Form a watering basin around each mound or set up drip irrigation. Plant four to six seeds in a circle about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Thin to two or three seedlings per hill.


If you're growing them in rows, space the rows 3 to 6 feet apart and dig watering furrows along each row or install drip irrigation. Sow two to three seeds together, 1/2 to 1 inch deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. Thin to one seedling per grouping.


For containers, plant bush varieties in a pot that is at least a foot deep.


Cucumbers need consistently moist soil to prevent bitterness, so water them well when you plant them and continue to water vigilantly and regularly. Sprinklers can encourage mildew, so choose watering methods that won’t dampen the leaves.


Keep the soil around the plants weeded and mulched. Mulching under the fruits will help keep them clean, as will raising them off the ground. Fertilize the soil once the plants start to grow well, then again about four weeks later. You may need to protect very young seedlings from birds, but remove any netting or covers once flowers form to allow pollination.


Cucumbers are bothered by a litany of pests, including aphids, cucumber beetles, flea beetles, mites, squash bugs and squash vine borers. They also can succumb to anthracnose, bacterial wilt, mosaic virus and downy and powdery mildew.





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